Train Food - What's in a name
We recently completed a train trip across Canada from Vancouver to Quebec (sleeper service just to Toronto). One of the things that caught my eye in the brochures was the promise of culinary wonders - Flavour in Motion. Once on board, the menus read like a fine dining who's who - Glazed Veal Shank, Panco Crust Baked Pickerel (a fresh water, flakey white fish), Canadian Crab Eggs Benedict, Four Cheese Ravioli, Chocolate Mocha Tort, Buttermilk Pancakes - to name a few. Great names for great dishes. Regrettably, our hopes could not be sustained with Great Taste to match the Great Names. Some meals lacked the proper finish - a soggy duck breast and chewy veal made us want to grab the spatula and take control. And then there were the complete flops - a sad Onion Soup was served twice on the trip and macaroni salad that should have been left at the Thrifty's deli counter. Despite that, the food (and nearly all other service) dances jigs around our southern neighbour Amtrak. Though nothing to crow about, the salads were a nice mix of fresh greens, the breakfast omelette and classic Pig & Eggs Your Way menu consistently delivered, and the Prime Rib offered a pleasant surprise when served with an almost spicy horseradish sauce. Thoughtfully, every meal included a vegetarian selection, but this reporter can provide no reviews for that.
In closing, we don't want to forget the adjective Train modifying the name Food. When we think of ViaRail's "Flavour in Motion" we will remember the lovely package it is served in. The conversations with once-strangers-now-friends around a small communal table, the sport of eating with a rhythmic sway remenisant of intoxicated Marimba dancing, and the rolling scenery that promises & delivers something new around each bend in the track. The best parts of Train overwhelms the worst part of the Food.
My last word about train food is that loose relationship between train station food and train food. I would argue in North America there is no food in train stations, though you might find some good drink. Of course the opposite is true elsewhere in the world.
The Verdict - We will travel this route again (look for an invitation to join us). Maybe with a bit more wine in the suitcase and in Fall or Winter for a dramatic contrast. We will eat the meals, enjoy the company, and toast our community railroad for at least recognizing the value of fine dining en route and putting itself out there.
Cheers.
